🔗 Share this article

When assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. However, tucked high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the family totally astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary triumph.